Bordeaux—this word carries an almost
mythic status and fires the mind with anticipation of greatness. No other
wine region in the world is a more important source of notorious great
wines,… and Bordeaux can truly be called the largest fine wine vineyard on
the globe. -
KAREN MAC NEIL—THE WINE BIBLE
Bordeaux is the ultimate symbol of
wine, everywhere in the world. No other wine region is more powerful,
commercially developed, or more abundant as a source of profoundly
complex, age-worthy great wines. The challenge is to comprehend it all.
It is without question the largest fine wine vineyard on the globe. The
Bordeaux appellation covers more territory than all of the vineyards of
Germany put together and it is ten times larger than the vineyard acreage
of New Zealand. In Bordeaux some 15,000 growers, amongst which figure
hundreds of top-class estates – plus thousands of lesser standing –
together produce a daunting 750 million bottles of wine every year,
including many of the priciest wines in the world.
Perfectly
located just halfway between the North Pole and the Equator, Bordeaux lies
along the path of three important rivers—the Gironde, which is in fact the
Estuary itself, plus the two rivers that feed it, the Dordogne and the
Garonne. To the immediate West is the Atlantic Ocean, and everywhere the
region is crisscrossed by small streams. These waters play a critical
role in shaping the region and the wine it produces. Bordeaux is mostly a
red-wine region. More than 80% of the wine made is red. Five grape
varietals are used and they are almost always blended together.
In
the 1st century B.C., some years before the Roman legions
invaded Aquitaine, merchants from Campania in Italy came to sell their
wine to the inhabitants of Burdigalia (ancient Roman name for
Bordeaux).
They found the soil favorable and planted some vines on the banks of the
Gironde River. In the 4th century A.D. the wines of the area
became so popular in Rome that the Emperor Diocletian ordered the vines to
be uprooted and burned, as he did with the vines of Cahors, further in the
South West, to eliminate the competition.
In 820, on the order of
the Emperor Charlemagne, vines were planted again in Bordeaux by the
Benedictine monks. In the 12th century the wines of Bordeaux
gained further popularity due to the marriage of Eleanor d’Aquitaine and
Henry Plantagenet, future King Henry II of England who encouraged the
export of “Clarets” (as the English called them) to Britain. The wines of
the year were shipped to England before Christmas. In those days no one
knew how to preserve wine, and it would deteriorate after a year as a
result of natural chemical changes.
At
the end of the 17th Century, Claret encountered stiff
competition from the introduction of new beverages – tea, coffee and
chocolate, and also from other robust wines from the Iberian Peninsula
(Spain and Portugal). In addition, the foreign wars waged by Louis XIV led
importing countries to levy punitive measures and taxes on French wines.
In spite of this, high society in England remained devoted to the flavor
of Claret. In the early 18th century some London shippers
sought to create a new style of more refined wines, the ‘New French
Clarets’ which they bought young to lay down. In an inspired
marketing initiative, some merchants started to sell the wine in bottles
that were corked and sealed to guarantee their origin and could thus be
sold at a premium price.
Slowly
the connection between Terroir, the Châteaux
and Grands Vins (great wines) evolved, bringing about wines of a more
reliable standard. Wines began to be judged, rated, appreciated and
priced according to their quality. As a consequence, wine-growers began to
select land to cultivate the vines more carefully, limiting the amount of
wine produced in order to enhance the quality and improving the conditions
for ageing the wines in oak casks. At the same time, they introduced new
methods, protecting their wines during maturing stages and clarifying the
wine by fining or racking.
The
first ranking of the Bordeaux Crus was established at the end of the 18th
Century. The prestige of the Grands Vins of Bordeaux increased through
the 19th Century, as illustrated by the classification of the
Great Growths (Grands Crus) of Médoc
in 1855. Since then, all
First Great Growths have been benchmarks for style and quality for more
than two centuries. In fact, Haut-Brion had a write-up in the early 1600s,
when Samuel Pepys wrote the first Wine Review of all times in a British
Journal. Georges Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and generations of
aristocrats and millionaires have collected these wines.
In
1985, publisher Malcolm Forbes paid more than $150,000 for a 1787 Lafite
believed to have belonged to Thomas Jefferson; it remains the highest
price ever paid for a single bottle of wine.
Another
Great wine region of Bordeaux is along the Right Bank. There we find some
of the the oldest and most prestigious red wine appellations in the
world, like Saint Emilion and Pomerol. Some of the most sublime of all
Bordeaux wines are made there, and although Saint Emilion and Pomerol were
not part of the original Medoc 1855 classification, they have their own
system of classification and quality control evaluation. What makes
Pomerol and Saint Emilion “Terroir” so unique is an extraordinary
diversity of soil: no less than 5 types of clay, limestone, schist, gravel
and sand all contribute to its outstanding quality.
The
country of Saint Emilion is the only Wine Region in the World which has
been declared: “Patrimony of Humanity” by UNESCO.
One of the leading
appellations of Bordeaux wines, Pomerol is the tiniest region but the one
that today (since the early 60s) has the most cachet. In fact, Pomerol
stands now as one of the highest assets of Bordeaux. Home of the famous
Chateau Petrus, which may not be one of the first classified growths of
Medoc, but year in year out, Petrus turns out the most expensive and
sought after bottles of wine in the world. Chateau Petrus did set the
pace and standards for some remarkable red wines in the commune of
Pomerol.
All in all, Bordeaux has given
us some of the benchmarks of greatness by which all the fine wines in the
world are made today. Through the sheer and relentless dedication to
excellence of the Great Growths, we are now able to enjoy wines of quality
in all regions of the world. For this, all the Wine Lovers of the World
may thank Bordeaux, from the bottom of their hearts!.... |